Work Worth Doing

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Work Worth Doing

Once, when I was a unit head for the oldest unit (the equivalent of kibbutz age campers, entering 10th grade) at URJ Crane Lake Camp in 2008, there was a giant storm.

The storm shook the ground.  There was hail, lighting struck in blinding columns of energy on the campground itself, and buckets of rain blowing horizontally made stepping outside feel like submerging underwater.  My unit had been at Limmud (Jewish education) when the rain started, so we had sheltered in the old dining hall building. As we played cards and waited for the storm to pass, I received a frantic phone call - one of my female bunks was missing three campers. 

These three girls had developed a particular talent for sneaking out of Limmud, taking advantage of the fact that the rabbinical faculty rotated and didn’t necessarily know each kid by name right away.  Steps had been taken to correct the issue, but on this day, that was hardly relevant; three campers under my care were missing. We radioed each major indoor area on camp; no one had them. We sent the cabin-next-door’s counselors into their cabin: no dice.  I grew increasingly frantic. Feeling guilty and acting every bit of the impulsive 22 year old I was, I acted against the specific directive I had been given to shelter in place and ran out into the storm searching for my campers.

I ran all over the camp.  My feet hurt, my clothes were soaked, I felt scared, and I started crying.  I had failed these three girls by not being harsher and more specific about why it was bad to sneak away; I had failed their parents and my boss the camp director by not being a better supervisor.

Finally, exhausted, I made my way to the highest point on camp, the rec hall.  There I found the girls, composing a love song to a cute male lifeguard and giggling endlessly.  They could not have been safer from the storm or more perplexed with my dishevelment. They laughed at my state, and I was so relieved that I collapsed into fits of giggles alongside them.

When I arrived at Greene in Mid-May, It had been a decade since I last spent a summer at camp; ten years I spent being a chef in high stress, high volume kitchens. Ten years of needing food to be served perfectly cooked at the exact right moment; ten years of answering to bosses and customers with expectations beyond reason.  And yet, as I struggled to sleep before the first night of camp, the feelings that I felt as a 22-year-old unit head came rushing back into my head. Stress, anxiety, fear; they all felt so tangible at camp in a way that even the most demanding kitchen I ever worked at never did. Why, I wondered, did it feel this way?

A camper came to camp this summer, and it immediately became clear it was not the right fit for them.  They acted out continuously, punched and kicked their counselor and members of our camp care team, and after almost a week of attempting to work with the camper and their family, the decision was made for that camper to go home. After the camper left camp, I watched a member of the camp care team and one of the camper’s counselors collapse together in tears.  In their eyes, they had failed that camper.  All they wanted was to bring the magic of camp to every single kid that comes through Greene’s gates - regardless of why, they had not done so with this camper.  And the feeling of that weighed upon them like boulders.

And then I began to understand my own stress and anxiety. Like every other camp staff member, I play a role in making sure that every camper has the most incredible, life-altering, world-view shaping, community-orienting summer possible. Fear of a negative yelp review has nothing on the collective weight of the hopes, dreams, and desires of every camper, parent, staff member, and alumnae who knows what transformation and growth is possible at camp.  If you understand that power, nothing less than every ounce of energy you have available to put into this holy work is acceptable. And that knowledge is stressful.

Another believer in the transformational power of camping and being outdoors, President Theodore Roosevelt, once noted, “Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.” As I look back over this past summer, the moments where I made mistakes and fell short, the moments where I had to push myself through exhaustion or wanted to tear out my hair in frustration, I can’t help but smile at the tremendous gift of working hard at work worth doing.  For the past two months, I got to pay forward the stress and anxiety that was felt on my behalf to create camp magic for hundreds of campers.  I can’t wait to do it again next summer.

(OK, I can probably wait.) (At least a month or two.)

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The Top 101 People, Places, and Things that got me Through 2020

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The Top 101 People, Places, and Things that got me Through 2020

This was a dumpster fire of a year, and it took ALOT to get through it for all of us. Here is a mostly comprehensive catalog of what helped me get through this year, ranked from least to most helpful.

101. The Great Kosher Meat War of 1902

100. Childish Gambino’s Rosenberg freestyle

99. “This is Me” Table Read

98. Stacy Abrams

97. The Last Dance

96. The “Simply the Best” cover from Schitt’s Creek

95. Miley Cyrus’ cover of “Heart of Glass”

94. Hysteria

93. The Fried Onions at The Blue Rooster in Broken Bow, Oklahoma

92. Storyworth.com

91. 18th and Vine

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89. The Joe Budden Podcast

88. The Kosher Meal Program at the Dallas JCC

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87. Rupi Kaur

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86. The Circle

85. Seriouseats.com

84. Half-Truth

83. roll20.com

82. Sandwich Hag

81. Hallal Guys

80. Firebird Pies

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79. American Horror Story: Coven

78. Sweaterhound.com

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77. Megan Thee Stallion

76. Taylor Swift

75. Codenames

74. Mountain Dew

73. Fannin Tree Farm

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72. Palm Springs

71. Garbage Plates

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70. RTJ 4 - Run The Jewels

69. Tiger King

68. Beaver’s Bend State Park

67. Animal Crossing: New Horizons

66. Starbucks

65. Doordash

64. Rainbow Challah

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63. Premier Grilling Gas Fireplace Logs

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59. Like a Version

58. Chuy’s Tex Mex

57. Tiny Desk Concerts

53. Stranger than Fiction

52. Big Green Egg

51. Jason Concepcion

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49. Home Depot

I BUILT A FENCE

I BUILT A FENCE

48. Yoshi’s Crafted World

47. Jackbox Games

46. My Breedlove Discovery CE

45. The New Animaniacs

44. D Magazine

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43. Zelda: Breath of the Wild

42. Sefaria.org

41. Sports? With Katie Nolan

40. Luigi's Mansion

39. The Bold Type

38. Jersey Mike’s

37. The Tea Time Podcast

36. Ink Master

35. The Smuggler’s Cove Cookbook

34. Tiki Cocktails

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33. Teamfight Tactics

32. DNDbeyond.com

31. Josh Allen

30. Jamal Murray

29. Nikola Jokic

28. My New Desk

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27. Boundary Breaks Glitz

26. Spicy Tingly Noodle Meal Kit from Xi’an Famous Foods

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25. Superstore

24. Harley Quin

23. Pokemon Go

22. One Day at a Time

21. Are You the One

20.Tennis

19. All Fantasy Everything

18. NBA 2K

17. Middleditch and Schwartz

16. Eli's Biggest Ever Birthday Picnic Extravaganza Cookbook

15. MTV’s The Challenge

14.Brooklyn 99

13. Group Texts/Whatsapp

12. Dungeons and Dragons

A Bed Dragon, from one of our group’s adventures

A Bed Dragon, from one of our group’s adventures

11. Tiktok

10. Whiterock Lake

9. Atid Takes on Talmud

8. The NYT Crossword Puzzle App

7. What we do in the Shadows

6. Jon Bellion

5. My Niece Harper Hinds

4. Zoom

3. My Dog Burt Karate-Cohn-Wein Macklin

2. My Father Jerry Wein

1. My Wife Leslie Cohn-Wein

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Night of the Living Talmud

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Night of the Living Talmud

“If the eye was given permission to see, no creature would be able to withstand the abundance and ubiquity of the demons and continue to live unaffected by them...they stand over us like mounds of dirt surrounding a pit.” - Berakhot 6a

As I’ve begun studying the Talmud in earnest, my grandest realization is very simple: I feel bad for the Talmudic sages. They were learned men, dedicated to what must have been mind-bendingly complex scholarship in maintaining a firm grasp on passing down the Oral Torah over dozens of generations, which is already a steep ask. They were then further asked to synthesize that information with the world around them, answering questions that today would be asked of scientists, astronomers, and doctors. The world of the diaspora was brand new, literally every single thing needed explaining or clarifying, and these Rabbis were the sought-after experts on all of it. The Talmud is an attempt to codify an answer to every question in existence using the extremely limited tools of the time. This led to some...odd passages of Talmud. The Torah says explicitly that the pharaoh’s advisors were capable of some minor types of magic. So I can almost picture the scene when a concerned citizen asks the rabbis: what should we do if we run into this type of evil magical person?

Ameimar said: The chief of witches said to me: One who encounters witches should say this incantation: Hot feces in torn date baskets in your mouth, witches; may your hairs fall out because you use them for witchcraft; your crumbs, which you use for witchcraft, should scatter in the wind; your spices, which you use for your witchcraft, should scatter; the wind should carry away the fresh saffron that you witches hold to perform your witchcraft. - Pesachim 110a

It has always seemed odd to me that Halloween was a more taboo holiday in my Temple’s religious school than Christmas was. In the moment, I was mainly frustrated at adults smarmily telling me that Purim was the Jewish Halloween as if I didn’t have a detailed calendar of dates when an overindulgence of sugar was allowed. Further explanations of Halloween’s origin as a pagan holiday also rang oddly; I patiently explained to my Hebrew school teacher that I was not interested in pagan rituals, I was simply interested in dressing up as Superman and searching out full-sized candy bars.

As a very slightly more mature adult, I now am annoyed for a slightly more (less?) compelling reason: Judaism may not borrow heavily from pagan tradition as Christianity does, but the bits that Halloween celebrates? The various ghouls, ghosts, demons, and magic things that go bump in the night? They are all right here, used all over the Talmud to explain evils and terrors of the world around us.

The Sages taught: A person should not drink water at night. And if he drank, his blood is upon his own head, due to the danger. The Gemara asks: What is this danger? The Gemara answers: The danger of the shavrirei, an evil spirit that rules over water. And if he is thirsty, what is his remedy? If there is another person with him, he should wake him and say to him: I thirst for water, and then he may drink. And if there is no other person with him, he should knock with the lid on the jug and say to himself: So-and-so, son of so-and-so, your mother said to you to beware of the shavrirei verirei rirei yirei rei, found in white cups. This is an incantation against the evil spirit. - Avodah Zara 12b

Is there a more universal feeling than the slight paranoid pang of terror one can feel at moments being alone, or in the dark, or in a remote location? The small jolt of electricity that tickles the nape of your neck when you would swear you saw a pair of eyes looking at you from just out of sight? In this world of the Talmudic rabbis, those moments were not so easily dismissed as paranoia, and examples of the world’s evils could not be forgiven as coincidence. While Job remains the bright flashing allegory of why bad things might happen to good people, there are plenty of other instances where the writers of Jewish texts go out of their way to ascribe bad behavior to malevolent supernatural forces.

Now the spirit of the LORD had departed from Saul, and an evil spirit from the LORD began to terrify him. Saul’s courtiers said to him, “An evil spirit is terrifying you. Let our lord give the order [and] the courtiers in attendance on you will look for someone who is skilled at playing the lyre; whenever the evil spirit of G-d comes over you, he will play it and you will feel better.” So Saul said to his courtiers, “Find me someone who can play well and bring him to me.” - I Samuel 16

Two points if you can name that lyre player: if you guessed David, G-d’s chosen replacement for Saul, well done. Not unlike the big bad guy in a mafia movie, G-d steps outside the room before his goons go to work, absolving G-d of the madness that consumes Saul. One can only imagine the reaction of the families of early sufferers of various mental psychoses, diagnosed as having had g-d’s spirit leave them. What evil must their family have committed to be afflicted in such a way?

Apropos the binding of Isaac, the Gemara elaborates: It is written: “And it came to pass after these matters [hadevarim] that G-d tried Abraham” (Genesis 22:1). The Gemara asks: After what matters? How does the binding of Isaac relate to the preceding events? Rabbi Yoḥanan said in the name of Rabbi Yosei ben Zimra: This means after the statement [devarav] of Satan, as it is written: “And the child grew, and was weaned, and Abraham prepared a great feast on the day that Isaac was weaned” (Genesis 21:8). Satan said before the Holy One, Blessed be He: Master of the Universe, this old man, you favored him with a product of the womb, i.e., a child, at one hundred years of age. From the entire feast that he prepared, did he not have even one dove or one pigeon to sacrifice before You as a thanks-offering? G-d said to Satan: Did Abraham prepare the feast for any reason but for his son? If I say to him: Sacrifice your son before Me, he would immediately slaughter him. Immediately, after these matters, the verse states: “And G-d tried Abraham.” - Sanhedrin 89b

How many overwrought sermons have been written on the binding of Isaac? A G-d that tests a human in such an emotionally cruel and manipulative manner is not one that most feel good about basing a religion around.  That dissonance is relatively unproblematic within my reform upbringing, where we can accept the story as allegory rather than fact.  But the Talmudic sages did not have any such out: Torah is black fire written on white fire by G-d, and if the Torah says something happens that conflicts with your worldview, the only option is to find a nuance that helps smooth the edges.

The core concept of Judaism, monotheism, was a revolution in its time.  Polytheism is a much easier pill to swallow, theologically speaking. By compartmentalizing worship and spreading faith over a swath of deities, moments where humanity is forced to confront the darker sides of existence can be explained away by evil G-ds triumphing over good. If a string of bad luck befalls you, if evil comes knocking on your doorstep, a change of the direction of prayer habits may do the trick.

By contrast, a single omnipotent G-d by definition must hold final say over all outcomes, good and evil, throughout the world. The evil demons that would overwhelm us if only we were allowed to see them are held at bay or allowed to attack by a singular unknowable (if theoretically benevolent) power. The moments of paranoia, of terror and horror and sorrow and grief, must be confronted and incorporated into the larger tapestry of g-d’s creation. Bad things happen to good people, evil often triumphs over good.  Judaism forces us to confront those facts as part of our larger understanding of g-d’s majesty.

It feels deeply comforting to know that our ancestors the Talmudic sages struggled with that idea as heavily as we do today.  Our fears and neuroses link us with them as much as any ritual practice. So as we head into this Shabbos of Halloween, I will hopefully give see some ghosts and goblins in search of candy outside of my window and think of the Rabbis of the Talmud, forever seeking to understand the unknowable, and finding comfort in ghost stories.

Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi commanded his sons: After my death my lamp should be lit in its usual place, my table should be set in its usual place, and the bed should be arranged in its usual place. The Gemara asks: What is the reason he made these requests? The Gemara explains: Every Shabbat eve, even after his passing, Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi would come to his house as he had done during his lifetime, and he therefore wished for everything to be set up as usual. - Ketubot 103a

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The Blessing of Asking For Help

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The Blessing of Asking For Help

Rabbi Yoḥanan fell ill. Rabbi Ḥanina entered to visit him, and said to him: Is your suffering dear to you? Rabbi Yoḥanan said to him: I welcome neither this suffering nor its reward. Rabbi Ḥanina said to him: Give me your hand. He gave him his hand, and Rabbi Ḥanina stood him up and restored him to health. The Gemara asks: Why did Rabbi Yoḥanan wait for Rabbi Ḥanina to restore him to health? If he was able to heal his student, let Rabbi Yoḥanan stand himself up. The Gemara answers, they say: A prisoner cannot generally free himself from prison, but depends on others to release him from his shackles. 

 - Babalonian Talmud, Berakhot 5b

On Yom Kippur in 2009, God kind of tried to kill me.

I was in Utah, backpacking through Zion National Park on a two-month wilderness program, a rehab I had agreed to go to after I stole $600 from a close friend of mine and he and another friend had approached my dad, concerned about the direction my life was heading. 

While a number of other participants felt anger or deep sadness on first arrival in the middle of nowhere, I felt a deep sense of relief. I was as terrified as anyone else in my life about what felt like a complete lack of ability to control my actions. As the desert scenery passed on the four-hour drive from the nearest city to the campsite I still thought of this as simply another adventure that I would be a passive participant in, one that would push my uncontrollable life in a positive direction.

The first day in the program you aren’t allowed to speak. Questions, comments, complaints? It has to wait a day. My glasses fell off and broke my first afternoon as I fumbled with setting up my tarp for the evening.  I was silently handed tape. Earning a headlamp - crucial for not stepping on cacti when standing up to pee in the middle of the night - took making fire with a bow drill, a hilariously old fashioned method of doing things that stops being funny the very second you are first attempting to do it. Every moment smacked of teaching self-reliance, but as I fumbled through attempting to stay alive the only thought that would play through my mind was “Why is this happening to me?”

Rosh Hashanah arrived about three weeks into my stay. I told my therapist I didn’t need anything for the holiday, not wanting to be seen as receiving special treatment. The morning of the chag she sent out a challah, a wildly exotic delicacy for a diet that was almost entirely beans, rice, tuna, and peanut butter. The group said amen to my blessing over the bread, and we silently chewed and marveled over the unexpected bounty. I felt a surprising warmth at getting to share this moment. In our session the following day, I thanked my therapist profusely and asked her about spending Yom Kippur in a meaningful way, and indicated my desire to fast. Some of the other participants noted that they would like to fast alongside me, in spiritual solidarity. A central piece of this rehab program was not being given information about the future, but she said she would take it under consideration.

When we arrived at our campsite on Erev Yom Kippur, a package was waiting for me - a package was never waiting. For anyone.  Inside was my prayer book, shipped cross country by my dad.  As I prepared for bed that night, I turned on my headlamp (acquired a day before) and prayed the maariv service.  I wept tears of joy.

The next morning we were told that in lieu of a normal hike, we were going leave out heavy bags and camp supplies in place and take a lite day hike instead.  We hiked about two miles to the top of a nearby mesa. When we arrived, we were given time to stand on our own and look out over the massive desert basin around us.  I said the Shema. I cried tears of sorrow, considering the myriad sins against those I loved that had brought me to this moment, and how powerless I felt to change my behavior moving forward. We gathered back together and collectively screamed into the silence.  

The sky darkened quickly, and the rain started. The top of a mesa in the middle of a desert basin is a very bad place to be when lightning starts flying, so our group started its descent.  Hiking without 50lb packs for the first time in a month, we whooped and hollered as we galloped down the path. The route back to the gathering of tall trees in one corner of the basin that made up our campsite was essentially a wide-open field. As we sprinted across the field, we screamed like little kids getting let out for recess.  Lighting struck a lone tree maybe a mile from where we were running, then second and third and fourth bolts struck at varying distances from us on the plain and mesa we had just been standing on, each carrying earth-shattering claps of thunder that only heightened our laughter, a nervous reaction to the insane situation we suddenly found ourselves in.  We split up upon arrival back at the campsite, and as I dove under my tarp, soaked and exhausted, I couldn’t stop giggling. We passed the time waiting out the storm by yelling dirty jokes to each other over the din of the rain.  

The storm passed just before sunset, and it was dark by the time we got the fire going to make our break fast dinner.  Our staff revealed a final surprise: Hebrew national hotdogs, challah, honey, hummus, latkes, grape juice, tzimmes that had been cooked by my therapist. The feast was epic by wilderness standards, and we ate until full and I told stories about the town of Chelm and my Jewish summer camp until bedtime.

At my next session with my therapist, I couldn’t stop thanking her.  What she had done for me was so above and beyond what I believed I deserved, such an act of love and kindness that I simply could not put into words for her what the holiday had felt like.

She waved off my praise.

“You did this,” she said simply. “I wanted you to have a religious experience for Rosh Hashana too, but you kept telling me you didn’t need anything, that you didn’t want to be a bother. You have to ask for help to achieve the life you want. I’m your therapist; helping you find moments of introspection, spirituality, and joy is literally my job! Trying to do this on your own is going to get you nowhere.”

It was a deep moment. As I said, I had long thought of my ongoing addiction and depression as outside forces over which I held very little power and next to no control, mainly because I’d had no success in battling them on my own. I’d passed the first and second steps of AA - acknowledging that I was powerless and having faith that a higher power could restore my sanity - with flying colors. I struggled with the latter half of the steps - the ones that required taking active control of my situation. My largest struggle was simply being able to admit my need and ask for help.  The desire to appear impervious to sadness or struggle was the single largest blocker to me achieving victory over sadness and struggle.

I’d love to tell you that the realization of needing to ask for help changed my life instantly, but of course, life does not plot a linear path. The two years that followed the wilderness remain almost certainly the two saddest of my life, including relapses, getting fired from jobs, and a trip to the mental hospital.

I can’t pinpoint exactly when things changed, but I know for certain that if not for that Yom Kippur experience I would not have called my therapist to tell her that I needed help checking myself into the psych ward because I didn’t trust myself to not attempt suicide. Like the captain of a sinking ship, I was buoyed each time asking for help bailed some water out of my boat.  Eventually, the muscle memory of asking for help taught me that I vastly preferred being the captain of a ship that wasn’t underwater. 

Now, close to a decade sober from the pills that I once allowed to control my life, I still occasionally struggle to ask for help when I should. Heading into Yom Kipper, As I consider the moments from this year that I need to repent for, they are almost universally moments that could have been avoided if I had simply admitted imperfection and asked for assistance.  Moments where I ghosted friends or blew off zoom calls could have been made better if I had simply been able to ask people who care about me for patience and understanding as we all deal with the massive emotional baggage that the year has wrought. Moments where I fell short professionally or in personal obligations could have been avoided if I could have simply admitted that I bit off more than I could chew or didn’t work proactively enough and now needed to be bailed out.  Moments where I was insensitive simply required the humility to acknowledge my ignorance and be willing and grateful to be educated. 

Last week, as we ended a difficult year and looked forward to a year that promises further sadness and adversity, I reflected on the small joys spawned by our current circumstances that I want to carry into the new year.  The three largest - groups of friends that gather weekly for tennis matches, dungeons and dragons games, and Talmud study - are all grown out of someone being willing to say out loud what they need, and then seeking out others to help them accomplish things that would be literally impossible for a person to do solo. The willingness to do that emotional labor improved the lives of both the asker and the asked, the individual and the community.  

This year may each of us be blessed with the insight to know when and where we fall short of the life we want, the strength to ask for help when needed, the wisdom to know that everyone else is fighting the same battle, and the compassion to be gentle with ourselves and those around us when we inevitably fall short.

G’mar Chatimah Tovah

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Reflections from an Essential Employee

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Reflections from an Essential Employee

I, like many Americans in the Covid crisis, recently learned that I am essential.

An essential employee of the Jewish Community Center of Dallas, that is. This came as somewhat of a surprise to me. It’s not generally something a person considers, I suppose, and the grim reality of our current situation has put into ink something that previously had been, at most, a figment of a thought experiment.

There were a few days of pretend normalcy last week, where a skeleton staff of employees still roamed the suddenly much emptier halls. And then the “shelter in place” directive came, and now all that’s left in the building is my assisstant chef, our mashgicha (kashrut supervisor) and I, the JCC senior leadership, and a maintenance person or two.

I guess it should feel good, being essential. It means job security, and it means that I have something to do to feel useful and get out of the house, and thankfully my coworkers stuck at home are still employed by the J, which is more than many can say.

But something has felt off about it, which I hadn’t been able to put into words until my dad found this while on a quarantine-motivated cleaning spree:

Obviously, the primary point of showing you this picture is to point out what an incredible cutie I used to be, with a full head of hair and the smile of a boy who had never seen the Bills lose the Super Bowl four times in a row.

It’s impossible to overstate how deeply impactful the JCC was to my childhood.

I did Pre-K there. I went to JCC day camp for 4 summers, and JCC sleep-away camp for a decade after that. After school care, musical theater productions, sports leagues. Book fest, Movie Fest, Macabia. Our synagogue needed a larger venue for high holiday services? We moved to the J and never looked back. Before I knew what the term “lay leadership” meant, a camp counselor had talked me into joining the “JCC Teen Leadership Council.” Heck, I’m pretty sure I had a birthday party or two at the J.

As I looked at this picture, and contemplated the lasting influence of my experiences, I couldn’t help but think of the hundreds of JCC employees who spent thousands of hours planning and running all of those programs. I’ve long thought about “The JCC” being an outsize influence on my life, but of course I am using “the JCC” as a stand-in for the incredible collection of people employed by the J who cared deeply about my community and worked hard every day to find ways to build and improve it.

And like that, my discomfort with the “essential” tag was crystallized: every single person I work with at the JCC is doing the deeply essential work of building and supporting our community, every single day. We had a staff meeting over video call this week, and it was spectacularly profound to hear the joy in each person’s voice as every department checked-in with the various ways they were supporting the community from afar. The only difference between what I do and what they are doing is that I can’t do my job from home. That’s different from being essential.

Sometimes, this week, I felt a bit overcome by the enormity of what is in front of us; the weeks on end of isolation, the pieces that will need to get picked up when we come to the end of this. The halls of the J are empty and dark and the world can feel just the same. And then, through the silence, I hear our J Camp Director, down the hall, singing “hineh mah tov” into a webcam, getting the families of our early childhood program ready for shabbat.

“Behold how good and how pleasing it is for a community to sit together in unity.”

It would be easy to let fear win, in a situation like this. To turn inwards, to shun community, to view others with suspicion and anger. Every day my colleagues do the essential work of finding ways to bring people together in this new reality. For that, I am eternally grateful, and more than willing to share my “essential” tag.

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The Top 50 Things I ate, January 1st, 2010 - December 31st, 2019

100. Phaal - Brick Lane Curry House, New York, New York
99. Chicken Pad Thai - Thai Elephant, Queens, NY
98. Breakfast Granola - Eleven Madison Park, New York, NY
97. The Burger - Peter Luger, Brooklyn, NY
96. Cauliflower Shawarma - Ta'im, New York, NY
95. Pulled Duroc Pork Sandwich - Num Pang, New York, NY
94. Outrageous Banana Split - Serendipity 3, New York, NY


93. Bourbon Chocolate Pecan Pie - Emporium Pies, Dallas, TX


92. The No. 5 Special - Keller's Drive-In, Dallas, TX





















91. Buttermilk Waffle - Balthazar, New York, NY





















90. Birdhouse Bao - Baohaus, New York, NY
89. Queso Mac and Cheese - Hometown BBQ, Brooklyn, NY
88. American Globs - BIg Gay Ice Cream, New York, NY
87. Ramp/Tellegio Burger - Salvation Burger, New York, NY





















86. Medium Hot Wings, Duff's - Buffalo, NY





















85. The Classic Board - Russ and Daughters, New York, NY
84. Roasted Broccoli - Amali, New York, NY
83. Hickory Pit Beans - Fiorella's Jack Stack, Kansas City, KS





















82. The Lil' Stinker - Roberta's, Brooklyn, NY
81. Crunchwrap Supreme - Taco Bell, Everywhere
80. Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream - Bluebell Creamery, Texas
79. Char Kuey Teow - Laut, New York, NY





















78. Mole Poblano Carrots - Empellon Cocina, New York, NY
77. Whole Fish - Jack's Wife Frieda, New York, NY
76. Fried Chicken - Root and Bone, New York, NY





















75. The Black Label Burger - Minetta Tavern, New York, NY





















74. Beef and Lamb Shawarma - The King Of Falafel and Shawarma, Queens, NY
73. Alcachofas - La Vara, Brooklyn, NY
72. Fresh Masa - Tortilleria Nixtamal, Queens, NY
71. Whole Grilled Fish - Taverna Kyclades, Queens, NY
70. Omakase - Neta, New York, NY
69. Kung Pao Pastrami - Mission Chinese, New York, NY
68. Rabbit Ragu Gnocchi - M. Wells Dinette, New York, NY
67. Hot Honey Yardbird - Red Rooster, New York, NY





















66. The Smoked Meat Sandwich - Mile End, Brooklyn, NY





















65. Marinated Foie Gras with Smoked Apple - The Modern, New York, NY
64. Pecan Waffle - Waffle House, Knoxville, TN





















63. Pastrami on Rye Carbonara - Alder, New York, NY
62. Parsnip Steak - Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pontico Hills, NY
61. Honey Bastard - Cane Rosso, Dallas, TX
60. Sizzling Cookie - The Boatyard Grill, Ithaca, NY





















59. Hot Chicken+Waffles Cannoli - Zolis, Dallas, TX





















58. Cranberry-Walnut Chicken Salad Sandwich - Public Market, West Stockbridge, MA
57. Pan-Seared Hen of the Woods Mushrooms - ABC Cocina, New York, NY
56. The Trough - Pecan Lodge, Dallas, TX





















55. Bagel Tower - Sadelles, New York, NY





















54. Pork Belly Bun - Momofuku Noodle Bar, New York, NY
53. Carrot Tartare - Eleven Madison Park, New York, NY
52. Black Sesame Creme Brulee - Cha An Tea House, New York, NY
51. Mezza Luna Ravioli - Trattoria L'Incontro, Queens, NY
50. Spicy Cumin Lamb Noodles - Xi'an Famous Foods, New York, NY
49. The Italian Stallion - Jimmy's Food Store, Dallas, TX

48. Collard Greens Rueben - Turkey and the Wolf, New Orleans, LA

47. Creme Brulee Donut - Jarams, Dallas, TX
46. Cheese Pizza - Di Fara Pizza, New York, NY

45. Trashy Trailer Park Taco - Torchy's, Texas
44. Bone Marrow and Oxtail Marmalade - Blue Ribbon Brasserie, New York, NY
43. Cumin Lamb - Sichuan Gourmet, New York, NY
42. Golab Jamun - Babu Ji, New York, NY

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41. Corn Cookies - Momofuku Milk Bar, New York, NY
40. The Blue Crab Feast - Bethany Beach, DE

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39. Everything Bagel Pigs in a Blanket - 2nd Floor Bar and 'Essen, New York, NY

38. Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Biscuit -Bryant's Breakfast, Memphis, TN

37. Prime Rib - Cherche Midi, New York, NY
36. Cream-less Cauliflower Soup - Tocqueville, New York, NY
35. Extra Hot - Hattie B's, Nashville, TN

34. Egg Foo Young - Wo Hop, New York, NY
33. Duck Enmoladas - Cosme, New York, NY

32. Fatty Brisket - Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor, TX
31. The Ko Egg - Momofuku Ko, New York, NY
30. Fried Chicken Sandwich - Delaney Chicken, New York, NY

29. Mushroom Soup - The Grape, Dallas, TX
28. The Spangler - Zolis, Dallas, TX
27. Boom Boom Enchiladas - Chuys, Texas

26. Beef on Bun - Gates BBQ, Kansas City, KS

25. Murphy Style - Off-site Kitchen, Dallas, TX

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24. Golden Beets in Red Beet Hummus - Sachet, Dallas, TX









23. Pulled Pork Sandwich - Central BBQ, Memphis, TN

22. Trompo Costras - Orinoco, CDMX, Mexico








21. Original Sausage - Hutchins BBQ, McKinney, TX
20. Egg Bagel with Lox, Scallion Cream Cheese, and Red Onion - Brooklyn Bagel, Queens, NY

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19. Long Walk to Nashville Fried Chicken - Rapscallion, Dallas, TX
18. Cochinita Pibil Tacos - El Turix, CDMX, Mexico







17. Duck Wings - Flora St. Cafe, Dallas, TX

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16. Shrimp and Grits - Husk, Nashville, TN






15. White Truffle Risotto - Tocqueville, New York, NY






14. Charred Avocado Tartare, Ant Larvae, Mexican Herb Chips - Quintonil, CDMX, Mexico






13. Pastrami Rueben - Katz's Deli, New York, NY

12. Golden Wings - Lloyd's Limited, Penn Yann, NY





11. Elsie's Chocolate Chip Cake - My Kitchen

10. Cheeseburger - Bark Hot Dogs, Brooklyn, NY
9. Queso - Torchy's, Texas

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8. Rugelach - Marzipan, Jerusalem, Israel

7. Chicken for Two - The Nomad, New York, NY
6. Garbage Plate - Penfield Hots, Rochester, NY

5. Mole Madre - Pujol, CDMX, Mexico




4. Pita Bread - Saba, New Orleans, LA

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3. Seared Scallop, Cauliflower Veloute, Osetra Caviar - Hanna Sarah, Brooklyn, NY



2. Fried Chicken - Our Wedding/Pies n' Thighs, Queens/Brooklyn, NY
1. Turkey/Roast beef sub on Sesame Bread with Lettuce, Onion, Hot Peppers, Seasoned Oil, Mayo, and Provolone - Dibella's, Rochester, NY

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Kansas City: A Meativore's Guide

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Kansas City: A Meativore's Guide

Kansas City wants you to love meat.

That is to say, if you have a long weekend to spend solely devoted to a carnivore’s journey, Kansas City is ready and willing to act as evangelists for the Church of Meat.  Travel with us now through seventy-two hours in a carnivore’s paradise.

Friday, 11:00 AM: The Butcher

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We head from the Airport in Missouri across state lines into Kansas to head to one of the oldest Butchers in Kansas City, Bichelmeyer Meats. The surroundings are deeply industrial – stockyards and warehouses. The building is not designed for beauty but houses some of the most beautiful meat that we have laid eyes on.  In a theme that will run through our visit, the highlight is the beef.  The Bichelmmeyer family raises their own owns Angus herd, which graze unconfined on 3,500 acres of pasture the next town over. The butchers are expert in their cuts, aging, and storage.  The result: some of the choicest commercially available meat I’ve ever laid my hands on.  We buy: 2” Thick Cut Porterhouse Steaks, roughly one for every three people on the trip. We are making this insane Twice Fried Porterhouse from Bon Appetit, which takes three days to complete so we are getting a jump on it.  We also bought some gorgeous short ribs because we couldn’t help ourselves. 

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We return to the Airbnb, drop our stuff, and season and refrigerate the steaks. So much work! We are hungry.  It’s Meat O’Clock.

Friday, 1:30 PM: The Bun

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Our first BBQ in the city is Gates BBQ, one of two restaurants in Kansas City that can trace their history back to the creator of Kansas City Barbecue, Henry Perry.  Now it has six locations, a bevy of nostalgia-inducing decorations, and one of the finest barbecue sandwiches going.  The “beef on bun” is the thing to get, with fries and a soda. The sandwich is a good introduction to Kansas City’s approach to BBQ – a sweeter hickory smoke and thick tomato-based sauce.  The sweetness is balanced by a variety of things across the various restaurants, and at Gates it’s lemon juice and ground red pepper, which creates a bright, nicely spicy sandwich. The pickles and fries are exactly what you want them to be, and you head back to the AirBnB, sated momentarily.

Friday, 7:00 PM: The Gas Station BBQ

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The History of Joe’s Kansas City BBQ is basically that these two guys won about fifty awards at various Barbecue Competitions and then they opened a barbecue joint inside a gas station.  That information in and of itself is enough to draw a person to the restaurant, so it is a pleasant win to know that they barbecue is also excellent. The sauce has a lovely tang with some mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and every bit of the meat is cooked to juicy perfection.

The evening is accounted for by the stores of craft beers sharing space with the steaks in the fridge.  Don’t forget to move the steaks over to the freezer before you break the bourbon out.  Meat!

Saturday, 11:30 AM: The Railroad Restaurant

Suitably hungover, you arrive to a mall full of screaming children. Ignore them and head for Fritz’s Railroad restaurant, where freshly-syruped cherry-limeades will soothe you as a softly whirring overhead railroad system delivers food to giddy patrons.  The Tomorrowland vibe of the automation is intoxicatingly fun and the well-executed diner-style burgers and fries don’t hurt either. Finish the whole thing off with a milkshake as thick as drying concrete. The whole world should be like this.

Saturday, 7:00 PM: The Classy Establishment

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Dinner is in the private room at the Rieger, a 102-year-old Hotel/Distillery/Restaurant. The distillery was located on a street known as “The Wettest Block in the World,” until Prohibition shut them down in 1919. The hotel remained, and when prohibition ended they returned to making some excellent whiskey. The restaurant's vibe is flawless, as the brick and wood décor, expertly made cocktails, and use of local ingredients all flow together to create a really sterling hospitality experience. 

Saturday, 10:00 PM: The Jazz Club

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Enjoying the aftertaste of the Rieger’s fine whiskey on your lips, The corner of 18th and Vine tumbles out of a Dick Tracy novel, bathed in the cool neon of The Blue Room’s sign.  A Low-Rise Cadillac rolls by containing two gentlemen inexplicably dressed as the Blues Brothers, sub-woofer strapped to the top of the car, blasting Tina Turner’s version of “Proud Mary,” we receive a casual nod as they pass by. 

Inside, the jazz is great, the beer is cold, the crowd is happy to be there. It is really, genuinely wonderful to feel a part of the evening – so much of our life seems to be couched in fearful sarcasm, and to be in a place that seems united in a completely unironic enjoyment of the moment feels warm and joyful. People have been enjoying jazz on this block for almost a century, and as you sip on some more Rieger whiskey and take it all in it's impossible not to feel connected to all of it.

Stumble out in the early hours of Sunday to catch a ride back to the AirBnB, drunk on Jazz.  Wait, that’s probably not accurate.  Whatever, just go with it. Stagger over to check on the steaks in the freezer before you pass out.

Sunday, 12:00PM – The Institution

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Slightly miserable but regretting nothing, make your way to Fiorella's Jack’s Stack. Feel free to be bewitched by some of the non-traditional BBQ that they offer, but the correct order is the brisket burnt ends (feel free to feel like a BBQ snob as you specify that you want ends from the juicy, fatty point of the brisket, not the tougher and dryer flat), and side dish of their baked beans, which are smoky and sweet and impossibly delicious. A fun game is to ask the waiter to describe the process of cooking the beans, by which they sit in the coals under the cooking meat, slowly catching the drippings, and see which of your companions is not audibly panting by the end of the explanation.

Sunday, 1:30PM – The Cigar Store

A quick stop at the “Best Tobacconist in Kansas City for the past 15 years running” according to the trustworthy journalists at “Cigar Monthly” Magazine, Fidel’s. (Thanks, Internet!) The shop is lovely and the shopkeeper responds enthusiastically in our search for a cigar to pair with the steaks this evening. On the way out pass a police officer and a doctor amicably discussing the Royals’ playoff chances while puffing away. Is this real life?  Better, It’s Kansas City.

Sunday, 2:00 – Willy Wonka’s Beer Factory

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The MVP of the weekend which has somehow thus far gone unnamed is the Boulevard Beer Company, a Kansas City mainstay that happens to feature some of the finest beer created on these fruited plains of America. There is beer on the tour, there are free beer samples at the end of the tour, and there are free drink coupons for the Factory Bar for having gone on the tour.  There is a lovely view of the city and board games and a foosball table and have we mentioned how good the beer is? It’s good.  So Good.

Sunday, 7:00 PM – The Coup De Grace

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The Steaks are perfect, the chili cheese tater tots you’ve prepared as the salad course for the meal are warm and gooey, and the pile of Whiskey, Cigars, and Beer you’ve accumulated need to be gone before you leave tomorrow morning.  There’s only one thing to be done, and you know what it is – Kansas City has certainly taught you that much.

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The Nobel Peace Prize of Sandwiches

The Nobel Peace Prize of Sandwiches

With all due respect to my wife, the longest-lasting and most rewarding relationship in my life is with sandwiches. (An idle daydream while writing this piece that had me make a Sophie’s Choice-style decision between my two loves left me dispirited for the next half hour.) Our torrid love affair began the first time a humble peanut butter and jelly variation on processed white bread passed between my lips and has been growing ever since. I marvel how a sandwich can be fierce and biting in a cubano one moment and be playful and bright in a caprese the next. I have never seen a day that wouldn’t be made better with a sandwich; even when the modern day haters show their blatant gluten-phobia I stand by my man(wich).

Before we get to far in, let us briefly define our terms: a sandwich is any dish wherein one or more pieces of bread serve as a container or wrapper for some other food.  This definition purposefully includes tacos (tortillas being nothing more than unleavened flat bread), gyros, hot dogs, burgers, and even burritos, while removing sad lettuce wraps and the depressing mélange of paleo bread alternatives that have sprouted up recently. Here’s the thing, people who want to argue about tacos and hot dogs not being sandwiches: shut up.  The same people who are arguing that a hot dog is not a sandwich are the ones who were wandering around at New Year’s parties in 1999 telling anyone who would listen that the new century didn’t start until 2001.  You might be right, asshole, but we were all having a lot more fun before you got here.

Sandwiches are a big tent, uniting humanity under a coalescing concept: there is a simple moment, usually but not limited to somewhere in the middle of your day, where a good combination of bread and filling will make up for any indignities you had to suffer during the first half of your day and bolster your will for its remainder.

The golden standard of bread/filling/bread in my humble (and absolutely, totally, one-hundred-percent correct) opinion comes from an Italian-deli style submarine sandwich chain shop based out of western New York called Dibella’s.  

While they offer a large swath of sandwiches, I am devoted to a single one.  In fact, since determining my ideal combination of fillings and meats in 1999, I have literally never purchased a different sandwich from them. It has a relatively long ingredient list, by sandwich standards: An irregular oval of sesame white bread roll, cut approximately 85% across lengthwise, leaving a hearty wall to connect the upper and lower pieces of bread. The bread is the most important element, and the place that most sandwich shops fall down hardest. A good roll requires a militaristic commitment to baking fresh, multiple times a day buns. The crust has a crunch that yields quickly to the soft underbelly of the interior roll, which in its own way provides texture and then steps aside to make way for the interior filling’s flavor. As a small aside, you should be able to hold one end of a good roll without the other side flopping flaccidly downward (looking at you, Subway.) Mayo is spread generously across both the top and bottom of the bread – spreading rather than squirting from a bottle ensures no overly-gloppy zones of leftover goop. Next come the vegetables; Lettuce and white onion, never anything other than fiercely crisp and fresh, pickled red and green hot peppers, there only to bring spice to the sandwich with no overly cloying sweet or peppery flavor. Seasoned oil, added at this moment to lightly marinate the vegetables.  Roast beef and turkey are generously laid on one side of the bun, obscuring the whole bottom of the bread in two separate layers. Finally, a layer of tessellated provolone, acting as the high-friction stopper that prevents the mayo-covered top bun from sliding off the sandwich and providing a calm creaminess to add depth to the texture and flavor of each bite.

I myself have been purveyor of delectable sandwiches of the fried chicken variety for the past year. After a brief dalliance with fried chicken pieces early on in our operation, our menu now is limited to just three sandwiches and a few sides. This decision is a bold calculation in its implicit message to potential customers: you may want something different than what we offer, but you can not deny our singular focus on the dish at hand. The gamble has paid off; without linking to too many blog posts or yelp reviews, we are generally thought of as one of the best fried chicken sandwiches in the city, being reviewed favorably to New York culinary giants Danny Meyer and David Chang’s variations. I am proud that we have become firmly entrenched in the New York City midtown lunch firmament, that we have been well received, that ours is among the leaders in the battle against the mid-day blahs.

And yet I still ponder daily the exact chemistry and sorcery of protein to condiment to bread to provide an ideal bite.  Is there a bun that would better support my chicken? Do three pickles provide enough acidity, and how best can I spread them to ensure equal brine in each bite? Should we be putting the mayo on the top bun? I ponder a single dish with five total ingredients every day and still don’t feel that I put enough thought into this humble beast.  And even when a sandwich has been firmly figured, there is a new chef to train to drizzle the chicken with hot sauce just so, a new season of cucumbers to learn the sweetness of, a new special to dream about, and so on.

This speaks to the grand truth of why sandwiches stand alone among a wide sea of other ubiquitous food items – sandwich glory is neither a singular path nor a zero-sum game; your sandwich and my sandwich can be equally as delicious as each other without diminishing either. Beyond just understanding that two fried chicken sandwiches can be both wildly different from each other and still both be delicious, this also moves to a larger point: the fact that basically every culture in human history has its own variation of bread/meat/bread is a singular way to understand humanity as a kindred force, united in a quest for sustenance; spokes on a bike wheel all ending in the same place.

Call it the Nobel Peace Prize theory of sandwiches: appreciation for the way someone else prepares a sandwich can help you learn to appreciate their soul.  The man who sells the superlative schwarma in a pita sandwich in my  neighborhood believes that Israel shouldn’t exist; I disagree.  We could argue for hours, or we could nod contentedly as we both devour shaved meat on bread as the world goes by. We may not resolve any major issues, but the next time I reduce his culture to they or them in casual conversation, I may remind myself that we are all just part of a larger, sandwich loving “they.”

The theory may sound hopelessly optimistic, or terribly naïve – I certainly don’t propose that sandwiches are going to help bring peace to a world that is filled with hate and fear. I’m not saying that a peace process in the Middle East will be solved by a particularly good falafel sandwich; in fact, I’m not saying much at all, because I have a sandwich in my mouth.  Wouldn’t the world be better if across the world, instead of mouths filled with hateful and divisive speech, we had mouths filled with sandwiches?

Where the Apple Falls

Where the Apple Falls

By my senior year in high school, I was spending a minimum of four days a week at our synagogue. Sundays, Mondays, and Wednesdays I was an assistant teacher at Hebrew school. Tuesdays were for youth group, where I was on the board. Once a month we had an upper-classmen pizza and Torah study. Every other month was a regional youth group event (where I was also on the board), which we anxiously awaited. I spent my summers at Jewish summer camp, sat on my city’s interfaith youth council, and planned to spend my first year out of high school living in Israel. My best friend (now becoming a rabbi) and I proudly accepted the nickname the “god squad” (ok, we may have seen the movie “Keeping the Faith” a few too many times and called ourselves that.)

All of this is a long way of saying that I was something of a NFTY (the reform Jewish youth movement) “golden child” – I took each passing strand of Judaism offered to me and wove it into my life until it became the defining characteristic of who I was.

After school years, I taught at a public school for a while, and continued to teach Hebrew school and work at summer camp. It was the logical next step for me – I assumed that one day I would run a summer camp or be a Rabbi, and I was just biding my time until I got to do that. I knew that I was good at working with kids, and planned my life accordingly.

So it seemed like I was arriving into my dream world when I accepted a job working for Kutz (the NFTY youth leadership camp) in 2011. Fittingly, I met the woman who is now my wife in my first week. Something not so dream-like happened though – I failed miserably at that job. I was flat out terrible.

My success working with kids came from being able to improvise – to pull the right words out of the air to talk to a homesick kid, or motivate a bunk, or get across a difficult concept. I quickly learned that those magic moments I created were the product of hours of long term planning and following through on larger ideas by other people. Those moments required magnitudes of patience and perseverance with no promise of success, and I simply couldn’t hack it. I had somehow achieved the adult job I most wanted without actually becoming an adult.

I left feeling like a failure. Leaving any job is hard, but to feel that I had done so badly for an organization I so revered stung terribly – NFTY was what I was best at; what did it mean about who I was if I wasn’t actually that good at it? The summer after I left I got a part-time job working at a hot dog cart on the Highline; I remember hiding behind a pillar when two former coworkers strolled by.

For a while hiding was my best solution. I moved from the cart on the Highline to the actual restaurant in Park Slope, I stayed away from events where I might bump into those from my former life; I shied away from Jewish ritual practice and study. I threw myself into the restaurant world and pretended I had never wanted to work with Jewish youth.

Starting at the bottom of a occupation that I knew nothing about and had no experience in forced me to learn perseverance; working hard at a job that only a few months before I would have thought was below me taught me patience. Skills I had not believed myself capable of only a few months prior became a part of my daily routine.

I didn’t notice NFTY starting to creep back in to my life, at first – I used a meeting template I had created as a Unit Head at Crane Lake for my first restaurant staff meeting as general manager. I used the standard NFTY program format to write a proposal for a consulting job I was offered. Time and again, as I took on new challenges, I fell back on things I had learned living the URJ life. When I left my role with Kutz, I convinced myself that the skills I had learned in my time in NFTY were worthless or fake. I’ve since realized those skills – the confidence to lead, the compassion to work with others, the desire to foster a good and holy community – are what allow me to be successful in this field. I might have stepped away from NFTY, but NFTY has never really left me.

These days, I try to cook Shabbos dinner a few times a month. We invite people over, we laugh and eat, and we bask in the warmth of the cooling stove and each other’s company. That warmth resonates to my first experiences in NFTY, where I learned the quiet spirituality of friendship and the power of faith. NFTY is the tree that helped support my early growth, and when I fell from the tree I learned to grow on my own. For a little while I thought that I had failed at being the perfect example of the power of NFTY. Now I’m pretty sure that that is exactly what I am.

Simplicity and Innovation

Simplicity and Innovation

The first recipe I remember being aware of was photocopied handwriting on a wrinkled piece of paper that I received in Mrs. Sias’s first grade class and though I no longer have it, I know the recipe by heart:

Smiles

Ingredients:

1 Apple
Peanut Butter
Mini Marshmallows

Instructions:

Cut the apple into slices. Spread the peanut butter on one side of two different slices, put the marshmallows along one side of one slice, and cover with the second slice.

A demonstration of the creation was viewed and sampled in the classroom, and I deemed it outstanding both in taste and looks, so I brought the sheet home to my father and indicated my proclivity. He, thus notified, proceeded to have it waiting as an after school snack. I would come home from school, sit at the kitchen island, and chomp on them and tell my dad about my day.

One day, I came home to find this:

WHAT WAS THIS? Adding chocolate chips? I was dumbfounded. I demanded the rational. ”Call them braces” my dad shrugged.

I like to think that that moment was the beginning of my love for cooking. Until that moment, food simply appeared in front of me, as one whole item. As far as I knew, my pasta was picked off the tree already cooked with sauce. In that moment food became something that could me played with and shaped to one’s pleasing.

We eventually decided that the chocolate chips were a game-changer that rendered the marshmallows superfluous. I remember experimenting with other toppings over the years, from chocolate sauce (too messy) to M&M’s (which seem like a good idea on first glance but realistically just put a barrier between your taste buds and chocolate.)

My dad’s second brilliant innovation was this:

We named them mustaches and they may still be my favorite taste combination of all time. You will not avoid getting a bit messy as the peanut butter will slide from the banana, but once achieved, the sandwich is a concert of three distinct sweetnesses, proof positive that basic ingredients don’t need to be modified radically to enhance their flavor.

It’s incredible how our actions affect each other, isn’t it? Certainly I doubt my father set out to provoke a sea change in my feelings about food; most likely he simply got bored of making the same thing over and over again, and began to play.

The gift giving cliche is that it is the thought that counts: I’d argue that the statement goes double for food, as this simple dish that my dad gave me triggers such powerful thoughts of happy afternoons sitting and eating with my dad, and the dual culinary lessons of innovation and simplicity that sparked my passion for cooking.

Writer Note: I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the apple slicer/corer that we had, and which I purchased for 2 dollars at the dollar store specifically for the writing of this post. It is useful for one insanely specific task, but it is so useful for that task that the specificity is overshadowed by the joy in ease of use.

Writer Note 2: Happy Birthday, Dad.

The Burger King

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The Burger King

I cook burgers. Every. Single. Day. My loose estimate is that over the past three years I’ve probably cooked, no joke, around ten thousand burgers. I can flip burgers with my eyes closed; I can cook 20 patties to medium rare simultaneously. I can put a caramelized crust on a burger so perfect that it would make Ron Swanson weep.  I’m far from the best burger flipper there ever was, but I know my way around a spatula.

As any craftsman who takes pride in his craft does, I have spent hours, more than any human rightfully should, contemplating the various aspects of the culinary canvas that is the classic American burger. Where you might idly daydream about sandy beaches or Channing Tatum (ok, I daydream about Channing Tatum) I mostly just think about how to make the best burger.  This has turned into something compulsive bordering on insane. Join me, won’t you?

The perfect burger starts with a great first bite; the bun, lightly sweet, filling your mouth until yielding easily under pressure from your tongue. It doesn’t overhang the burger; it knows its role is solely vehicle, not starring player.  For my money, a potato roll’s hoi polloi heart takes a brioche’s bourgeoisie fanciness for pure burger satisfaction every day of the week. That said, some burgers simply demand a brioche, with their juices that would turn a potato roll into a soggy mess that dissolves under your thumb.

The patty should be thick enough to feel substantial without forcing you to open your jaw to an uncomfortable degree. A burger should be cooked on a griddle rather than a grill: arguments otherwise are ridiculous.  Whatever you gain from the “smokiness” of the grill (I just love that subtle charcoal and lighter fluid finish) is completely overshadowed by the wonder and joy that a crisp caramelized crust brings. I’m just saying that Louis is on the short list of boy child names. (Maillard AND Pasteur? It’s a pretty decent name). Those thin little strips of caramelization you get on a grill? I’ll take the method that caramelizes the whole top of the burger, thanks. None of the juices drop off into the charcoal nether, either.

The seasoning and temperature of the patty are the most direct communication of the chef’s expertise, attention, and love.  My perfect temperature is just on the rare side of medium – cooked enough that the texture of the burger asserts itself on the bite through, but rare enough that it contributes a bit of its own sauce. Salt and pepper are like referees at sporting events; when they are working well you don’t even notice them, and when there is too much of them everything is awful.

The accessory toppings and condiments I generally leave to the producer of the burger – trusting that they know what best compliments their star player.  That does mean I punish particularly harshly unripe tomatoes, wilted lettuce, limp pickle slices and their ilk. Most burgers need some sauce too – ketchup and mustard work. A dry burger offered without even ketchup on the table will earn a cluck from me that would make a nosy neighbor proud.

Pause a moment while I pinch myself to relieve my Jewish guilt; I also can’t remember the last burger I had without cheese. (I read over that sentence and grimaced slightly, and then turned on the national anthem and saluted my nearest golden arches.) Cholesterol levels notwithstanding, a single slice of cheese strategically melted on a burger can dramatically upgrade the dish.  I reject out of hand anyone who argues that American cheese is best. (Looking at you, Shake Shack.) Monterrey Jack melts best but lacks a flavor that asserts itself over the burger. A smokey Gruyere is spectacular with some caramelized onions but lacks the versatility to act as the jack-of-all trades building block that something as ubiquitous as a burger. (Shout out to bleu cheese with some crispy fried onions in this same category.) The solution, as it is for just so so many things in life, is cheddar.  Good cheddar cheese offers an assertive earthy and nutty cheese that melts well.  It also happens to pair really nicely with (Oh how the guilt waves wash over me) bacon.

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Food as Life

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Food as Life

The first night I closed at the restaurant, I called my then-girlfriend (now fiancee).  It was a not a call for help; I was merely delaying the moment to come when I would have to empty the hot oil from the fryer.

The call ended.  Every other task was done.  The grill cook looked over at me and clucked.  “Do I need to do that for you?”

In that moment, I thought about being six and sitting on the steps at my grandparents’ house, outside my parents’ room, in the middle of the night. I needed to throw up but didn’t want to bother my parents or wake them from their slumber. So I cried and sat on the step.  If I knocked on the door they would have been at my side in a heartbeat, I knew.  But I didn’t want to bother anyone.  I wanted to be able to deal on my own.  So I took a deep breath, gathered my nerves, and vomited all over the carpet in the bedroom that I shared with my cousins.  Like a big boy.

The grill cook sucked in his breath through his teeth.

“No,” I said.

 

A few nights later, exhausted from a day on the line, I started to pour water in to the fryer to clean it before the oil had finished draining.  The oil hissed angrily as it boiled over the pot I had drained it in to.  The mistake cost me an extra hour of cleaning, along with the dirty looks from my manager and other chef as they helped me mop up.  It also cost me a pair of shoes.  As I walked to the subway in my socks, I made my nightly call to my girlfriend.  I told her everything. I think I cried a bit.

The thing about the restaurant is that it will let you know quickly when you make a mistake.  I have two hands and arms full of cuts and burns as small reminders – one reminds me that I need to stay focused when I clean the grill, another is a beacon to the danger of forgetting the heat of the oven door.

As I’ve progressed at the restaurant, the mistakes shine brighter, and the scars cut deeper.  A forgotten inventory order will lead to us running out of product, which will lead to disappointing customers, which will lose us business.  A customer doesn’t care (nor should they!) that I got interrupted 5 times while doing our ice cream inventory;  all that they see is that the flavor of milkshake that they came to have is unavailable to them.

There is a moment, right as I step onto the line during a rush, where I feel plunged into deep water. Fifteen tickets on the board, no clean space to work with, no semblance of organization.  That first ticket I put out, the first time I get to clear the board of old tickets, these are the first strong pushes towards the surface.  When I can identify every item we need I can see sunlight, and by the time new orders are coming in I’m already feeling the air rush back into my lungs.

 

These words are not new or unique – the difficulty of restaurant life has been expounded upon by chefs far more experienced and verbose than me.  But in the pain that I’ve brought myself in the countless mistakes and mishaps I’ve run into in the restaurant, I’ve found something revelatory:

I am powerful.

As children, we crave power.  Childhood obsessions with dinosaurs, trains, fire trucks, and so on were really just a constant searching for role models that absolutely positively did not have someone setting them a bed time.

Over the course of my life, I had allowed that quest for power to fall by the way side – I allowed each mounting failure (and there were many) to set the parameters of who I was.  When I lost or forgot things, I cursed myself and decided I was disorganized.  When I flaked on plans, I decided I was not reliable.  I allowed my failures to define who I was and what I was capable of.

 

With so little self esteem, I sought out jobs that came easily to me.  I avoided jobs that seemed difficult or taxing because I didn’t trust myself to be able to hold them for any amount of time. The more things I proved myself bad at, the more weak and useless I became.

The restaurant doesn’t care what I think of myself; it only cares about the work getting done. There will be 200 hungry people ready to be fed for dinner tonight whether you are ready for them or not, whether you’re capable or not.   If you can’t do it, if you can’t hack it, there are one hundred other resumes just itching for your position.  But you have that chance.  Everyone starts somewhere – that first night on the line, after the third rush of people, with my manager yelling at me at you to not just stand there and get my station clean, that’s where I found my power.

“I’m just awful at this,” I thought to myself, “but I can get better.”

 

And slowly, I have.  I can run the kitchen or front of house with equal ease on our busiest nights; I’m learning how to keep my purveyor orders organized and on time.  I’m still not what I would consider “good” at all of this – a Michelin-starred restaurant would spit me out without breaking stride.  But I’m getting better.  And my mistakes don’t define the job I’m doing – I still obsess over every detail of them, but only to learn how to never make them again.

The easy cliché would be to draw a direct line from the restaurant to my personal life, to talk about how the confidence in myself at work has allowed the confidence I feel in my life to blossom.  That is true to a degree, I suppose.  But the fact of the matter is that the restaurant is far simpler than life; rarely are decisions in my personal life as cut-and-dried as whether a delivery customer received his milkshake or not, or whether I remembered to order the proper amount of napkins.  Expertise in the restaurant world is only capable of bringing me up to barely passable life-world skills (ask my Fiancée how the cleaning and organization I’ve learned at the restaurant translates to our home life.)

But still, I’m showing myself every day that I have the power to change who I am for the better. I come home from each day of work simultaneously beaten down and beaming.  I rest and think about the days events – the seemingly unending mishmash of tiny catastrophes that prevent any one day from being a “normal” day.  Anyone can make a meal – It’s batting a thousand on the meals you make that presents the challenge.  To work in a restaurant is to recognize that perfection is impossible and to strive for it anyway.  Seeing the change I can affect simply by striving in that way has changed my whole worldview.

Now If you will excuse me, I have to get back to work.

 

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